If your cat is urinating in the house, it can cause a lot of stress to the whole family but may also be an indicator that your cat is poorly or stressed out too. It can be difficult to understand why it is happening. Working out if your cat has a behavioral problem or a medical condition is important so you know how to deal with and treat the problem.

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Cats descend from solitary ancestors, and their independent hunting skills made them prized by early humans. Consequently, they evolved to protect their hunting territory rather than to form social bonds with humans or other cats. As a result, cats today can experience stress and tension in multi-cat households and neighborhoods, where they must work hard to claim and defend their territory from numerous potential intruders.

Marking territory is a common way that cats work to protect the area where they live and hunt. Healthy cats may use both urine and feces to mark their territory, both of which contain powerful olfactory (scent) cues that ward off intruders. A cat will usually spray regularly in a prominent area to ward off other cats that may pass by. It may also be prompted to spray if a new pet (or person) comes into the cat’s territory. Intact male cats are the most likely to spray, but female cats also spray. Neutering does reduce the likelihood of spraying, but in some cats, habits are hard to break and even neutering does not stop a cat from spraying. While urine spraying serves a useful purpose for the cat, it can be an undesirable behavior when the cat marks territory within the house or in the garden. The common term for scent-marking in these circumstances is inappropriate elimination.

Urine spraying is normally a behavioral issue, and it looks different to normal urination. A cat spraying to mark its territory will start by standing with its rear end pointed at the object it intends to mark, its tail will point straight up, and the tip of the tail may flick from side to side as it sprays a small amount of urine back onto the target. The cat will usually choose a vertical surface to spray. In comparison, in normal urination, the cat will usually take time to pick a suitable place and once it is happy, it will squat on a horizontal surface and void a puddle of urine.

Typically, territorial urine spraying is a chronic (repetitive) behavior problem that presents any time the cat feels threatened, stressed, or hormonal. If your cat does this on a regular basis, it can be tempting to think that it is just a behavioral problem, but inappropriate urination of any kind can be caused by medical issues so if your cat has a change in their urinary behavior of any kind, it is a good idea to speak to your vet as soon as possible as there could be a medical cause. If your cat is vocalizing when it urinates, is urinating much more frequently than is normal, is straining unproductively or you see blood in the urine, then you should speak to your vet straight away as this could be an emergency situation.

One of the biggest challenges with inappropriate elimination is the myriad of potential causes. Cats are particularly susceptible to stress caused by changes in the household, such as dietary or litterbox changes, the addition of children or other pets to the household, or workers in the house. Even a pet sitter or cattery visit can stress or confuse cats and lead to this behavior. Stress can also lead to appetite/dietary changes, dehydration, and urinary retention, all of which can affect the urinary system of the cat. Hormones may also be involved, as well as generalized anxiety disorders. Your vet should be your first port of call if you’re worried about your cat urinating inappropriately. They can check your pet to treat or rule out medical issues. Medical problems such as diabetes, kidney disease and thyroid disease can cause your cat to drink, and wee, more than usual. Affected cats may not make it to the litter tray in time or may not want to use the tray if it hasn’t been cleaned since their last wee. Other medical conditions of the urinary tract can cause discomfort for your cat. Affected cats may strain against the discomfort and accidentally pass urine at times when they’re away from their litter tray. Examples of uncomfortable urinary conditions include urinary tract infection, bladder stones, feline idiopathic cystitis, and bladder cancer. Older cats can sometimes suffer from cognitive dysfunction syndrome, a type of dementia. Affected cats may forget their house-training and be prone to weeing and pooing in places that they wouldn’t usually. Older pets may also suffer with joint pain. Arthritic pain may prevent them from getting in and out of their litter tray as easily as they used to. They may benefit from a shallower tray that is easier for them to access. Arthritic cats may also struggle to groom themselves effectively and may accidentally carry urine or feces around the house, if it becomes stuck to their fur. Rarely, cats may have seizures and can pass urine and feces when this occurs. If you weren’t there when the seizure occurred, you could come home to find a mess on the floor but be unaware that a seizure had occurred. Incontinence, the true loss of bladder (and/or bowel) control, is not common in cats. If your cat does develop incontinence, then it is important to discuss your concerns with your vet. Incontinence is distressing for cats, who are naturally clean creatures, and is incredibly hard to live with as an owner. Euthanasia is a viable, welfare friendly option for incontinent pets. Ultimately, treatment of the problem depends on the underlying cause.

Behavioral factors can also cause inappropriate elimination, including:

• Litter tray aversion:
  • Dirty litter tray.
  • Litter tray is in a place your cat doesn’t like going to.
  • Your cat is aversive to the type of litter you’ve provided.
  • Your cat doesn’t like sharing their litter tray.
  • Your cat may have an aversive memory from previously using the litter tray, this may be from pain or repulsion from a dirty tray, or if it was scared or stressed at the same time that it previously used the tray.
• Urine marking: due to territorial, hormonal, or other behavior.
• Stress or anxiety: separation anxiety, or anxiety due to a territorial dispute.
• House-training: if your cat hasn’t had the correct training, or they’re still in the process of being trained.

If you think your cat has a medical problem causing their toileting problems, call your vet for advice. Underlying medical conditions will need to be treated by your vet. Following treatment, your cat should start toileting normally. Resolving and treating behavioral causes of urinating in the house may include:

• Avoid punishing your cat. Adding to your cat’s fear and anxiety may make the situation worse.
• Desexing (spaying or neutering) your cat can help in some instances of territorial urine spraying, but if the cat has been practicing the behavior for a while, the behavior is already learned and so there is no guarantee that surgery will be a solution.
• Thoroughly clean and deodorize the area where the cat has sprayed as cats often keep on urinating in the same place. Eliminating the odor is important to prevent re-soiling in that area.
• Encourage toileting in the desired area by ensuring a positive experience for the cat. If your cat uses a litter tray, careful attention is needed to make the litter tray as appealing as possible to encourage the cat to go there.
• Ensure the cat feels safe in its environment. Provide quiet and safe places for the cat to go when it needs refuge, especially if there are busy children, other pets, or new people in the house. Make sure the litter tray is in the cat’s safe area so that it doesn’t have to leave the area if it needs to toilet.
• Ensure neighborhood cats do not come into your home, as this can be especially upsetting to your cat. To prevent intruders, consider fitting an electronic cat flap, so only your cat can get in. It can be tempting to consider using a motion sensor activated sprayer to discourage neighborhood cats from approaching doors and windows, but this can backfire if your own cat gets sprayed, further adding to its stress. Be aware of neighborhood cats that might be bullying your cat. If your cat has been in a fight before, or if you live in an area where there are a lot of neighborhood cats, your cat may not feel safe to go to the toilet outside, so it would be important to provide a litter tray indoors.
• Consider using a product such as Feliway, a synthetic calming pheromone that mimics the smell produced by the mother cat. This can have a calming effect, encouraging the cat to feel safe in its environment. Products are available from your vet in spray or plug-in diffuser forms.

Cats are generally very clean and do not enjoy scratching in a dirty litter tray. A good rule of thumb is replacing the litter weekly. Thoroughly scrub the litter tray to remove odors and replace the litter with fresh litter. Remove any soiling daily to keep it as fresh as possible. In some cases, your cat may have developed an aversion from using the litter tray. There can be a multitude of reasons for this but often no number of improvements will cure the problem. Changing the tray to a new location can help, with or without a new type of litter. Adding additional trays, in different locations, can also help. The shape and size of the litter tray is important. Many trays are far too small, and the cat may have a hard time turning around. Some cats prefer a covered tray, while others dislike them. It is useful to have at least two trays available, with different sizes and configurations. Make sure the step into the tray isn’t too high for smaller or arthritic cats, so they feel safe and comfortable getting in and out. Ensure trays are placed in quiet places, where your cat won’t be disturbed by other pets or people. If you have multiple cats in your household, it is important to have at least one litter tray per cat in different areas of the house. You cannot have too many litter boxes when you have a cat with urinary issues, especially if there are multiple cats in the household. The type of litter is important. Some cats have a distinct preference to one type, or they may have developed an aversion to one type or another. Often cats don’t like dusty or scented litter, so aim for clean, odorless litter. You may need to try different ones to see which one your cat prefers. It is best to offer different trays with different litter for them to choose from at the same time.

Prevention is better than a cure. If you notice fresh urine in the house, quickly pat the area down to soak up as much as possible before it soaks in or dries. Then, rub down the affected area with a damp cloth to remove as much residual urine as possible. For surfaces, your vet may be able to recommend an effective biological odor eliminator. Use the product according to the directions. Using a carpet cleaner on carpets can be helpful. Look for enzymatic or biological pet odor eliminating carpet shampoos. Bear in mind that if urine has soaked down into the padding under the carpet it may be necessary to replace the padding to completely remove the smell. You may need to repeat the process a few times to ensure all odor is gone. The surface you are cleaning will determine what products are safe to use, so be sure to spot test the product first, so it doesn’t damage your rugs, carpets, or furnishings. In outdoor areas, use plenty of water to dilute the urine and wash it away. Try spraying a biological pet odor eliminating solution recommended by your vet. It will be impossible to remove all scent on plants and soil, but you can try spraying the area with a cat pheromone spray to make your cat less likely to spray there again.